BEFW 2019 Textile innovation: Organic cotton Denim without dyeing

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Natural Cotton Color participated in Brasil Eco Fashion Week with the launch of organic colored cotton denim for the Brazilian market. Successfully launched at Première Vision Paris in September 2019, it was presented at the sustainable fashion week held from November 16 to 18 at Unibes Cultural, in São Paulo. 

Sustainable Denim was developed by the Textile Technology Institute of SENAI Paraíba based on the demand of Natural Cotton Color. 

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Natural Cotton Color denim: 100% organic. Colored denim, but without using chemical, vegetable or mineral dyeing.

The invention of Natural Cotton Color’s Denim concerns the 100% organic colored cotton yarn applied to the flat twill fabric. That is, a colored Denim, but without the use of chemical, vegetable or mineral dyeing. 

As it is an unprecedented product, the patent was applied for at the National Institute of Intellectual Property (INPI) and the process is in the patent pending stage. 

Inspirations for the fashion show: elegant sustainable fashion with tailoring

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Alfaiataria, jacquard e recortes à laser. Inovação sobre o algodão colorido orgânico da Paraíba. Foto: agência Fotosite.

Natural Cotton Color presented 30 looks created by Francisca and Rafael Lemos, designer and stylist who consulted with support from Senai-PB. In this collection, production achieved one of the brand’s goals: to propose more pieces in tailoring – a modeling technique with differentiated stitching with straighter and better cuts. 

Thus, there were structured pieces that moved with others of greater fluidity, such as the evasé skirt made of fabric produced by hand loom. 

There is an intervention in this collection that deserves to be highlighted: the laser cutouts. “The cotton fabric with biodegradable polyamide has been allowing innovations that also dialogue with handcrafted details that are in the DNA of Natural Cotton Color”, says Francisca. 

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Organic cotton dress with Renaissance lace and crochet. Photo: Agência Fotosite.

Another highlight of the production process is the design work for better productivity in crafts and greater profitability of artisans in the production chain. In this collection, the lace was definitively incorporated with the new technique of “crocheted lace” developed by Francisca Vieira and carried out by Renasci – Associação das Rendeiras do Cariri Paraibano (Association of Lacemakers of Cariri Paraibano)

The chosen soundtrack starts with Varsovienne – sung in chorus by the Red Army – to talk about labor and worker rights. The song A Cidade, Chico Science, from Pernambuco, denounces “where the rich get richer and the poor get poorer and poorer”. Roger Waters’ Amused to Death, to address “the death of the human” which is reported only on TV. When playing Folia de Príncipe, Chico César, from Paraíba, the song gives voice to the northeastern citizen who does not want alms, but decent work and social justice: “But a doctor gives alms / to a man who is healthy / or kills him with shame / or addict the citizen ”. 

At the end, there was the song Disparada by the singers from Paraíba, Geraldo Vandré and Théo de Barros, in the voice of Jair Rodrigues. A soundtrack that is a narrative to reinforce the culture of ecological cotton and its strength to generate work and sustainability, giving autonomy to the rural man who does not need to migrate and owns his own destiny: “Now I am a knight. Firm tie, strong arm. In a kingdom that has no king ”, concludes the song.

Fashion show: all the photos in this link

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